About a week ago now, there was a little boy that caught a couple fish in a village called Ganal (pronounced Canal) not far from Malakal, Sudan. Excited to be able to sell them and provide some earnings for his family, he sought after some buyers. Much to his dismay, two groups of people desired the few cents that would be the tax from the sale of his fish. It just so happens that these two groups were members of warring tribes called the Dinka and Shulluk. This disagreement blew up into large and significant fighting that was quickly communciated to our base in Malakal from some missionaries living in a neighboring village.

Immediately, we stopped and prayed about the warring. Then Taylor, Allison, and I discussed what this meant. As the conversation developed, my stomach dropped deeper and deeper into my gut and fear was overtaking me. These two tribes have been revenge fighting for generations. So as soon as someone gets word in Malakal, a short phone call away, that these tribes are fighting, similar clashing can begin in an instant in our city. This happened last February and after hearing how dramatic that was, I feared mortars, bombs flying over our compound, landing a block away and laying on the floor to avoid stray bullets.

As I was talking to my brother, my imagination started getting control of me.

All I could see in my head were people crashing through our gate with machetes, with crazed looks and burrowing through our house, finding us hiding in a corner. I was scared. I thought I was about to be in the middle of an African massacre. Since I was seeing it all play out in my head, I was also experiencing the emotions I would be having if it were really happening. Sometimes being able to conjure up emotions and experiences using just my imagination can be a good and useful tool, but at this time, I still don’t have control over it – so in extreme situations like this, I became paralyzed.

We had enough water stored up to be safe, but my brother wanted to go out and buy some dry goods, since all the shops would be shut down while the fighting was going on. The thought of going out in town mortified me not knowing what would happen over the next hours. I had to trust God. I had to believe in His plan for my life in all of this. That was the only option.

So my brother and I, after some time to chill down, went on with our plans for the day. That evening the fighting had subsided and nothing had broken out in Malakal, where we were. We found out that the Dinka had raided the Shulluk tribe a few weeks earlier and had killed some people. So ever since, the Dinka had been living in fear of retaliation, which was to be expected. The Shulluk had been sending letters telling them of an impending attack, so this was their chance – the tax of the little boy’s fish was their opportunity to begin the fight.

My family and I were safe at the end of the day, but needless to say, I have never come so close to seeing death in my very near future. Nothing about this fight was good, but it made the tribal wars and desperate combating a reality. I could have easily come back to the states saying “eh, Africa isn’t as bad as everyone says it is. I was there 7 weeks and never heard or saw any hostility.” But after experiencing the close call that I did, I know it is real. I know it is scary and something that these people live with everyday. And, the weirdest part of all of it is that I knew people from each tribe living in Malakal. They were good people, who worked hard, who loved their families, and who were kind and generous to me. But because this revenge is so many generations old, somehow they can flip this rage switch to go attack relative strangers.

Now. That’s scary.

It was my 3rd day in Malakal, Sudan on Monday and I think I truly experienced a day in the life.

Woke up and had some eggs and freshly baked bread from a Dukan across the street. Then I went with my sister in law and another girl, Stephanie, that lives in the same compound as us to visit some women from Darfur. It was very interesting to be in their home and spend time learning who they were. We had to wear sleeves that covered our elbows and scarfs that covered our hair.  My 2 yr old niece came, too, and played really well with the little boy that was there with the women. It is special thing to see a little white baby girl (culturally ranked above even grown Sudanese men) serving a little Sudanese boy coffee and sharing food and toys with him. It was one of those days that will be impossible to forget.

Unfortunately this was the day I was super sick. At one point I was just walking hunched over because of such bad stomach pain. I was nervous it was Giardia, but it passed in a day (thank goodness). Note to self, if you are feeling ill, do not walk across town, stay put and don’t move.

This is on the street right outside the compound where I am staying. You can see the army in the back. In Sudan there are no street names. People just say "on the road going to the airport" or "on the road back from the SUK (market)"

Still on the same street. Super cute children on their way to the school behind our compound. I was a dukan (little corner market) where sometimes the children come to buy their lunch.

Avery and Allison at the Dukan

A beautiful women at the Dukan. I was a fan of her bright necklace!

Same street again. These donkey carts are all over Malakal. Used at F350s in the states.

Women are incredibly talented with carrying stuff on their heads. The water jugs are the most amazing to watch.

My adorable niece!

Allison and I on our way to visit some Muslim women from Darfur. Elbows, Ankles, and Hair must all be covered.

This is Regina. She is the lady that helps Allison with laundry and cleaning around the house.

Avery and the boy enjoyed playing with my sunglasses. No one really uses those here.

Love this shot, doesn't it look like Avery is breakdancing!?

Allison, Avery and Stephanie with the Darfur women.

The area of Malakal where the women live. Behind one of the gates, is a group of homes entire families share. And if one family moves away, some other random relative will move in. Everything is group owned.

These group of girls followed Allison and Me to the market. SO sweet. I think Avery was the point of interest. Most of the time they think she is a doll since they haven't ever seen a little white baby. Actually, Avery is the only white child in all of Malakal.

A beautiful (guhmeela) Sudanese girl.

Howdy my friends. I have a quick question for you – I have been doing this blog for a while now and would like your suggestions on how to improve it or encouragement to keep on doing something you like. Comment here or email me at allikay@gmail.com

Thanks!

Today was great in Malakal. I met a ton more people, went to an Arabic church, into town for food, hung out with the family and just enjoyed the day.  The church was great, tons of singing – videos to come when I have a better internet connection.  The whole church would sing, then there were opportunities for groups of people representing each of the tribes to come forward and sing… which meant all the white people got a turn.  So the six of us, my brother, sister in law, Avery, and 2 other missionaries on the property headed to front and did our best rendition of O Come Let Us Adore Him.  It was a hit, at least I think it was.  Though – following the AMAZING music from the tribes, we might have looked quite silly.

After church everyone files out and shakes every person’s hand. When you get to the end of the line, you join it and start shaking everyone else’s hand. I like that.  Personally greeting everyone, even the teeniest kids. It was fun.

Here are some pictures from the day. Soon I hope to have some of the “Suk,” the local market in the city.

My new friends on Loki. Lea was the one that took care of me there before I headed to Sudan.

My first experience sleeping in a mosquito net.

My favorite picture yet. At the Loki police station

I wanted to climb these mountains!!!

Avery loves her bottles of water!

The face killed me!

The church choir.

A super pic by Allison, my sister in law. Taylor enhanced it. It was amazing to watch this little boy, probably no older than 2 being completely content for 2 hours during the service. And, he was sitting directly in the sun shortly after this picture and was dripped in sweat. This people are far different from any I have known before.

Some of the kids from church.

Allison and me in our formal Laos for church. The women are very specific about these laos. Apparently mine was tied incorrectly so a super kind woman came and untied and fixed it for me. She was so gracious about it. Looks like something you just throw on so you don't have to care about what you are wearing, but it is quite the opposite. The shirt underneath MUST match and the skirt as well.

I made it to Sudan!!  it took me 5 months it seems, but I finally got here!  I know I have only been traveling since Monday, but in some way, the last 4 months on the road have been awesome, totally, but also a way to kill time until I got to come here to see my family.

I left Friday at noon and headed to Loki in Kenya for an overnight stay. The lady that runs the guest house there, forgot to get me, so after an hour of being a little nervous and waiting at the airport, I asked someone for a public phone to call, but my number didn’t work. Luckily, grace from God completely, he recognized the woman’s husband’s name and called him over (he worked at the airport). So he gave me a ride (phew!)

Turkana woman (not my image)

While driving to the compound I observed the indigenous people of the area, the Turkana tribe.  Very interesting people – the women are super buff and do all of the work. They care for the children, do all the heavy lifting and money making and prepare all food, yet they are always last to eat. They wear thick brightly beaded necklaces, and beautiful long scarfs.  The men wear short skirts, from the same looking scarf and just hang around town.  I bet these women would be killer climbers, really athletic, thin and tall.  I saw some potentially great cliff there, maybe one day I will get to check it out. (pictures to follow)

I had a wonderful visit, played some volleyball with the family from the guest house, ate a beautiful hotel that used to be full vacancy all of the time, but when all the NGO’s moved back to Sudan when it was allowed and safe again, it left places like this hotel empty almost over night. After a super buffet dinner, we headed back to the guest house for some sleep to prepare for the next day.

My first experience with mosquito net: a good one, I’d say. No bites!  Woke early and by 6:15 headed out to the Loki airport to fly to Juba, connected there on a different flight to Rumbeck, and then on to Malakal and finally arrived about 1:00.  It was SO good to see my brother, super fit and really happy. We grabbed some sandwiches and I shared my observation of how super tall and long limbed the Sudanese people were, and he kind of emphatically (not really sure what that word means, but seems appropriate there) told me, “just like you.”  What? Really? I am tall, and thin-ish, but they seriously have the longest bones ever. Someone should google it and let me know.

Moving on, we grabbed some sandwiches and finally headed back to the SIM compound. We we arrived, much to my surprise, Avery and Allison were waiting on the step and Avery didn’t stop saying my name for 5 minutes!  I have been storing up so much love for her over the last year, that it just poured out! It was so great to see her in real life. She looks just like my sister and is the happiest baby! I can’t wait to continue getting to know her. She warmed up in about 5 minutes and the rest of the say she was keen to play with me anytime. After playing at the house, Taylor, Allison, Avery and I headed to town for dinner food. The market was a sight. So much going on – so much business. Donkey carts, chickens, produce, everywhere!

Fabulous dinner made by Taylor and another guy at the compound, Andrew.  A Darfur guy joined us for dinner, Mohammed, and I wished so badly I knew more Arabic than just “peace be with you” and “how are you.” Oh well, a gal can only do so much.

I am really looking forward to tomorrow. I am so thankful that I going to be able to spend so much time with my family over the next month.

Cheers, y’all – may God be with you today.

The first days in Kenya have been interesting. It has been a more intimidating experience than I expected. While in the Amsterdam airport, I had to go through security again and packed into a line of an entire group of people I had never been around or seen before. For the first time I think I felt like a minority and very vulnerable.  Even when I have traveling to Mexico or China, when I was the only tall white girl for a long time, I didn’t feel out of place somehow. Maybe it was my confidence that allowed me not to notice how of place I looked to everyone else.  Well, that was missing in Nairobi my first couple days.  I don’t know how to explain it, but I didn’t like it.

I met a cool dude on my flight to Nairobi that has a non-profit out of Louisvill, KY where he travels to train people across the planet on disaster relief training and outdoor wilderness training. He raises money and then invites people for free to come for the 8 or 9 day training course.  Amazing work. Wish I had his site for you, but can’t find it right now.

I got to the airport, sailed though getting my visa, and ALL of my bags arrived (yahoo!!) and then had an easy pass through customs.  Beverly, the wife of the SIM Sudan director and also the missionary relations and general health lady, met me at the airport, super nice of her!  We loaded up and headed out and saw 4 wild zebras on the side of the road, crazy, eh??

Got in and settled in the house I am borrowing while some missionaries are on home assignment, started watching something on my ipod and at 11:10 pm, all power went out! And with a clouding night and no street lights, the house turned pitch black!  Ok, admittedly, I started to get scared. Come on, first night. alone. no idea what just happened. eek. Luckily those ipods are quite bright, so I was able to find my headlamp and checked things out. Then I crawled back in bed and fell alseep pretty quickly, only to wake up at 3:30am and stayed out. Half jet lag, half excitement.

Went to some orientation of how to stay safe in Sudan and also some information about the culture. I love how important greetings are in Kenya and Sudan. Everyone gets greeted all the time, strangers on the road ot best of friends. And if someone leaves and comes back 10 min later, you greet all over again. Now this is a place I could call home – I love meeting strangers! I am always that girl that says hello in an awkwardly silent elevator and such.

I walked around a little by myself and have started to feel a bit more confident here. Nairobi is quite a dangerous place and every where is gated. No joke. All businesses, restaurants, store fronts, apartments either have really intense metal cages behind the windows and/or a 12 foot tall metal gate where a guard stands 24/7.  Freaky. So far so good. Glad about that!

Big negative: I busted my knee. For real. I’ve never had an athletic injury before, but after talking to a nurse practitioner and today getting checked out by a sports medicine lady, they have deemed my troubles to over use. Makes sense since I have been aggresively hiking almost everyday for about 4 months now!  I have a knee brace that has been helping a little bit, but mostly I am trying to chill as much as possible. Since rest in the best medicine and that’s an impossibility since my feet are my only transportation here in Africa, I will just push through. 

I leave tomorrow for Loki in Kenya, spending the night and then onto Malakal in Sudan. I CAN”T WAIT TO SEE MY NEICE!!! 

One surprise about Sudan, if I get bitten by a snake or scorpion, I have to wait it out. I thought they were joking. If anyone knows me, I have minimal pain tollerance, so let’s just pray that doesn’t happen. (I bought some codine over the counter just in case)

Salek Aleakum (Means peace be with you in Arabic.)